Kaunas Days 2 and 3: Surgery, Post-OP and Start of Recovery

Kaunas: Day 2

Game Day at the Gijos Klinikos

The big day has arrived, its been 4 months since we knew for certain that this day was necessary.

Very fortunate to have the time and resources to sidestep the at least 30 months that would have been the future waiting in the Alberta version of the failed Canadian "medical" system. Not likely other provinces are much different, I just have no experience with them.

It is fascinating and tragic how government intervention in the Canadian medical system and the UK NHS, has destroyed the practice of medicine in these countries. Yes, I include the UK along with Canada(on good authority from other Nord Clinic patients as wells as friends in Scotland) in this grouping of most deficient, incompetent authorities globally. Rumour is Republic of Ireland may well also be included in this unparalleled company. Successive governments of these countries have turned the noble practice of medicine into a tax consuming, wasteful, behemoth that provides incredibly poor service while turning medical practitioners into little more than robotic uninspired civil servants.

The  "beloved" Canada Health Act and the UK NHS are only beloved by vote buying politicians and gullible voters duped into equating "free" with good. I also observe that the long wait to get surgery contributes greatly to further deterioration, not only of the damaged part, but of ones entire being. The injury makes it impossible to do many day to day tasks, reduces mobility, and adds more pounds to make matters worse; a downward spiral. This not only relates to old folks looking for new bone parts. Those waiting for necessary gender reassignment surgery are similarly suffering extreme anxiety and uncertainty with their inability to get a on with life. (Yes, these folks are suffering similar wait lists)

Room 9

Room 9 hall toward door

All the while government, if actually managed efficiently, could spend its resources on actual Health Care, where people are educated how to behave to lead healthy lives. Not promoting bad diet and sedentary living in support of Big Pharmas goal of selling more drugs. But hey, its great to get free stuff. If its too good to be true... its undoubtedly bullshit.

No, I'm not done yet. Good chance that there be another rant coming.

Room  9 En-suite Right

We arrive at the specified time of 08:00 at the Gijos Klinikos in Kaunas. It was interesting that nowhere was a Nord Clinic logo seen in this building, except on the newly acquired jackets that their representatives who herded us around were wearing. Seems Gijos Klinikos contracts out the space to Nord Clinic and no doubt others. Likely a very efficient business model.

Room 9 En-suite Left

We presented at the nursing station as we had been instructed to the previous day. Elaine was assigned Room 9, an excellent private room, no doubt identical to all the rest. Very modern, spotless, all the latest equipment, a lovely robe.

Johnny Gown

We loaded Elaine's stuff into her room, she changed into one of those fashionable backwards johnny gowns that hospitals issue to show off your backside.

Operating Theatre

A few minutes before 09:00 she disappeared into the operating theatre. I did catch a further glimpse of her as I had to backtrack to get my boots. The door opened as I passed, her skin had already been prepped with an orange disinfectant substance, Chloroprep? The door closed and the image was gone.  Like Elvis, I had left the building, in my case to worry about an uncertain future. I truly believed that my best friend, Bride of nearly 40 years was in good hands. Stuff however sometimes does go sideways.... If I was ever going to worry that time is now.

Two Hours Post-Op

I had been advised by Clinic staff to go away and return around noon. I took the opportunity to visit LIDL's, which is just across the road from the Clinic. I stocked up on a variety of beer (the Argus Strong version, 7.2%, was my favourite), a couple meat pies, pizza slice, fruit and sausage. Health food for the remainder of my stay at Algiro. Fully loaded up with staples for a couple days, I returned to the Clinic to see how it had all played out.

The surgery took about an hour, Spinal Anesthetic/block was used rather than General or Epidural, much less risk. If you have ever had a general, you know how awful they are, throat sore for a week or so and who knows what else might have occurred while you were absent your body? They offer the choice to remain awake and enjoy the action, or have a mild sedative to allow a brief exit to a happy place away from the fun. Elaine chose the latter.

Later in afternoon

She awoke around 10:00 still in operating theatre, Dr. Belickas had completed his work and even showed her how functional the knee was by cycling it through full movement for her. The Spinal block and sedative are clearly very effective. It will no doubt be some time before she gets back to where she can do that same movement on her own. She was back in her room by 10:10.

Argus Strong and me

I returned at noon and Elaine had a smile on her face. No doubt I still looked scared shitless, and was delighted to see her lovely smile, some of my tension was now relieved. I hung around until 13:30 enjoying her company. Dr. Belickas visited her just before 14:00 and remarked she was doing very well, he was happy with the result of the surgery.

I came back just after 16:30, the Spinal block had pretty much dissipated. New meds would soon be required. The Dr. was back again after 17:30 to check on her, wow! a surgeon that actually might care about his patient, or at least his reputation. By 19:00 Elaine still reporting "Not much pain at all ", she suggested possibly that the drugs were doing the talking. Tramadol mixed with something else was given to manage the pain. Able to attend the washroom with the walking aid. All good!
I returned to hotel to unwind a bit and write more silly blog words, my smile says it all. No need to patronize Algiro bar today, LIDL had me covered.

Kaunas: Day 3

The Roller Coaster recovery curve

26 Hours Post-Op

The pinta's and reduction in stress may have assisted in my sleeping later than normal, or maybe it was because it was after 02:00 when sleep mercifully came. I awoke at 08:45, enjoyed a quick breakfast at the hotel buffet, chased down a few items Elaine requested and headed to the Clinic.

Algiro Breakfast Buffet

An after XRAY had already been taken and Dr. Belickas had visited before 09:00. Elaine was able to ditch the johnny gear and get back in civilian clothes. At noon a physiotherapist arrived to provide instruction on proper use of walker and crutches. As can be seen at video link below, she was walking pretty good. Far beyond any expectation I had for this soon after surgery.

Video Link: Testing the new knee 26 hours after surgery

In the mean time I revisited LIDL. Obtained a couple food items and stocked up on more Argus Strong beer for the Druskininkai UPA spa. Figured a dozen pinta's would get me to the first of the week.

Wall art Tstore.lt

Elaine wanted a TShirt with a Lithuania logo, I found a nearby shop, Tstore.lt, and located the nice shirt as pictured below. Pre-printed, was even ladies medium as requested.

Took it back to the clinic room for sizing and well.... it was a bit small. Back to the Tstore.lt, the proprietor advised that, in that style even a large probably wouldn't fit.

Add caption

She enjoyed a body size/shape similar to Elaine, a perfect model, and suggested better to go with a unisex medium. The size she happened to be wearing. She was kind enough to model it and allow photos to be taken which I sent back to Elaine for review. The same colour was not available. She found that were only a few colours, but was OK as there was one close to that smaller one. She advised she could print a logo on it before 18:00 closing, I was happy. Enjoyed the wall art, in particular the kitty, a nice chat with proprietor and was away by 17:30

The Dr. Belickas visited two more times this day, lastly around the time I was enjoying the Tshirt shop adventure. He was very happy with Elaine's progress. He cautioned that she should expect swelling, bruising and pain for another few days. Apologized that he would not be available to stop in prior to Elaine checking out and heading to Spa Thursday. He would not be at this facility tomorrow as would be performing surgery at the public hospital.  He had visited Elaine a total of five times post surgery. He was also delighted with the 1L of Crown Royal picked up at Calgary duty free, a small token of our appreciation. He chatted freely with Elaine and noted happily that he had tickets for a basketball match Friday at the Kaunas Zalgiris Arena, apparently a big fan.


Another unrelated sidebar....Basketball games in Kaunas are played at the Zalgiris Arena . It was completed in 2011 at a cost of €50MM(which at the time was less than $70MMCAD), €15MM coming from the EU. Wasn't clear who provided the rest, likely other levels of government. A good bet that the Murray Edwards/Daryl Katz of Kaunas contributed as little as possible. The Arena holds over 15,000 persons for basketball and some 20,000 for concerts. Complete with 360 degree stage, 48 VIP suites and more. Biggest in the Baltics. Very impressive for a 250,000 person city.

Zalgiris Arena Website Link

What good value was achieved by Kaunas for the construction money. The Calgary Saddledome cost almost $100MMCAD in the 1980's, and the new one planned is budgeted at $550MM. Recalling that a Euro is about $1.50CAD, that equals over €350MM... will Calgary get anywhere close to 7 times the Arena that Kaunas has? Hard to imagine. Did I mention it's expensive to be Canadian? If Flames hockey was as popular as basketball apparently is in Kaunas, Murray and Naheed would have to build a 100,000 person arena in Cowtown! Unfortunately given the current direction of the Alberta economy, a Corral sized building will likely be sufficient to meet demand in another 10 years.

Neoline S61Dashcam

Calgary should be seeking out Lithuanian designers, contractors and trades to turnkey the project. Maybe even some EU money since we were too stupid to say yes to the Olympics and get our hands in the federal wallet. Germany is likely looking for a replacement for the UK, Alberta could join the EU, how could it be worse sending money to Brussels than quebec? Alberta might be lucky enough to get a fairer shake from the Germans than we do from the quebecers?

Oh yes, back to the topic at hand. The Dr. was correct; a prophet! The walking and physio treatment did take its toll, pain increased, leg muscles bordered on full cramping. By 19:00 she had received the 3rd dose of pain killers in a couple hours, all different meds. Happily 3rd time was indeed a charm, by 19:15 she reported that something had kicked in and she could hardly move. Mercifully she crashed for 9 hours.

Dash Camera in action

I had forgotten to bring my Dash Camera for the rental, so I headed to the Electronics store across the street from the Clinic, the staff spoke pretty good English and were able to get me setup with a Neoline S61 wide angle unit for €99. Might be useful if interesting or unusual things happened on the road. Cheap insurance.

Back to hotel for final night and a few more pinta sleep aides.

Trolley buses are still a thing in Europe

One more interesting sidebar, at least to me, is that Trolley buses are still a very common thing here. They are the transit workhorses. The equipment looks very new and modern.  Calgary Transit, with great foresight, phased trolleys out when I was in my teens. Why you might ask? The Calgary Transit website history section reports:
"During the late 1960’s and early 1970’s trolley buses were phased out and replaced with diesel buses that were more economical and flexible in their routing." Greta would not be amused.

Of further historical (hysterical?) note, the same Calgary Transit phased out streetcars in 1950 in favour of Trolleys. Go figure, maybe next up LRT will bow out in favour of pedicabs?

Kaunas Day 1: The Nordorthopaedic Clinic

Kaunas: Pre-Surgery Adventures

Vilnius Combined Heat Power Plant - Vilnius - 3

Once on the Freeway it is a little over an hours drive from Vilnius to Kaunas. Modern 4 lane divided highway the entire way. Vilnius is Lithuania's largest city with 550,000 residents, Kaunas second largest at 250,000 folks. Most notable landmark passed was a large aging gas/oil fired Heat and Power Plant, 600MW heat, 360 MW power. Plant has been in "conservation" mode since 2018 due to unfavourable economics, the site is currently being evaluated for "alternative options"

We were soon at Kaunas and the handheld navigating system took us to the address of the Clinic as reported on their web page. We parked in some nearby mud as parking area full. I scouted the building entrance prior to us  heading in and up to the second floor reception. A machine at door allowed you to install mandatory covers on your shoes, we entered and after a confusing conversation at reception (and it was not really a language issue), we determined that all we could do at this location was pay the fee. I was not prepared to pay the fee at this time.

Dr. Juozas Belickas discusses knee procedure with Elaine Scott

As part of the discussion prior to leaving Alberta, I had insisted we get a short tour of the Clinic before we did the business deal. A due diligence exercise, who knows, the facility might have been like the Calgary Foothills Hospital. I have been there many times, once as a patient, many as an advocate (NEVER GO TO THE FOOTHILLS WITHOUT AN ADVOCATE) a few years ago one of the staff told me they would never go there ever, it was horrible, told me if I had to attend a Calgary hospital go to the South Campus.

We were directed to the actual orthopaedic clinic, Gijos Klinikos,  a few minutes drive up the street. The fancy shoe covers went in the bin and we headed back to car and up the street. On arrival, we found a nurse on main floor, who extracted numerous vials of blood from Elaine, followed by an XRAY and ECG. Then were met by Simone a fast talking very efficient Nordortho Clinic representative you showed us into see Dr. Juozas Belickas, the othopaedic surgeon that will do the surgery. Dr. Belickas is a very experienced surgeon, has done over 2000 knee replacements, an instantly likeable, easy going gentleman. He answered our few questions and set us at ease. Maybe a 5 minute consultation regarding process timing and we were done! Back with Simone, she led us through the ward to the patient rooms area. We saw a sample room, it was clean, modern, bright in a word, fabulous. I was ready to part with the €7111 payment for surgery, implant and a few days at Spa.

Of course we had to return to the accounting office down the street to do that. First we had to reverse 50m out of the parking area, a busy lot, much double parking. Simone drove ahead and guided us back through now rush hour traffic to the accounting office, this time we found a paved parking spot. Also a busy place, they do boobs here. Soon we were back upstairs and the young lady took my cash and put it into a magic electric Euro counting machine and amazingly, I had counted it out correctly. It was a bit of a relief that I no longer was traipsing around with €8000+ cash, but then again nobody carries cash anymore, mugging for that commodity is a rare thing anymore. When I pay cash, which I usually do, most times folks look at me as if I just walked out of the 20th century, cash is not a thing anymore. Probably because I haven't left the 1900's yet, likely never fully will, in many ways the 20th century was better than now, the world was simple. We didn't look into our handhelds constantly. But that is old man talk, the present is good, we just have to fix it.

With payment made, the dice were now clearly on the ground, now the knee replacement was definitely going to happen. Bring on the scalpel!

In retrospect, I should have just used my recently acquired Stack pre-paid card to settle the balance, rather than carry that much cash around. Stack is not a credit card, rather a re-loadable pre-paid card, no qualifying needed. Stack is a valuable foreign exchange tool as it converts currency at the MasterCard mid point bid/ask rate on day of purchase.Typically credit cards charge from 2.5 to 3.5 points for them to have the privilege of exchanging your funds.

Banks are a blight on society, create no wealth just transfer it and take a cut. As seen from table. Financial Services account for 7.1% of Canada's GDP, not to mention "health"/medical Care at 6.6%, Public Administrivia(government) at 6.3%, Information and Cultural Services at 3% and "Other " Services at 1.9%, almost 25% of the economy adds no value. I have left the 5.2% spent on Education off this list, a service that is a future investment that should add value, and at a much higher rate than warehousing the elderly just to create "health" care jobs. Moving on, I can see the letters now. The Stack card comes with both a virtual and physical card. An App on the handheld provides access to balance, cash loading QR code(can be done at Post Office, Canadian Tire gas, Mobile and a couple others), transaction reports, purchase offers from Merchants that someone might be interested in. Trendy stuff I have no idea about or interest. Back to the cash, the biggest bills were €100 and only about €5000 were of that denomination rest a mix of €50/20/10s, oh and a €1 coin. That's a lot of paper money.

Get Stack Pre-Paid MasterCard

By the time I figured out that Stack has the best conversion rate I had already converted enough CAD to Euros through the CIBC/Canada Post online system (it took a half dozen transactions and a few visits to the post office). At about 0.7 basis point higher than Stack it was found to be a not really material difference, at least on a couple tests I made. No matter anyway as you can never change the past.

Physical Stack Card

If you know MasterCard will be accepted, Stack is certainly more convenient than a money belt, and way better than any bank credit card. Amazingly, the CIBC, often described as "the stupidest Bank in Canada" (possibly due to the $1.5B Enron payout), in a Joint Venture with Canada Post, (it's government, no more discussion required) is the most cost effective way I have found to obtain physical foreign cash. Maybe the fact that CIBC/Post Office provides best rates is self explanatory? Probably not long for this world.

Euro to CAD

The CAD to Euro conversion rate received at Post Office ranged from 1.46 to 1.47 CAD/Euro, Euro has struggled some in last couple years, to our benefit. My desire was  to manage risk by locking in exchange rate with physical Euro cash, as it turns out, it improved a little so cost about $80CAD premium to do so. Cheap insurance.

CIBC Canada Post Foreign Cash Service

 

Kaunas Accommodation

Aligro Hotel

4/5  piece bath

The deal was done, we again had the handheld guide us to our lodging for the night. I had previously booked the Hotel Aligro. We would both stay first night, I would stay 2 more while Elaine is at the clinic. It is a modern, affordably priced establishment, about 2.5 kms directly south of and on same road as the Clinic.

Sitting Area

Decent bedroom

The cost in January 2020 was less than €200 for 3 nights, oh and a Pinta of delicious beer (necessary if you haven't found LIDL's yet to stock your fridge) was only €3 at the sit down or take away bar by reception, I needed 3 to calm my nerves before retiring.

Algiro Reception and Bar

The price is all in for a suite type room, full bath, mini kitchen (Fridge, microwave, sink, kettle, utensils). A decent buffet full breakfast also served.

Algiro Hotel Kaunas

 

 

 

 

Kaunas Last Original Left Knee Supper

Breakfast had been a long time ago and hunger was starting to turn to hangryness. Simone had recommended we try Etno Navaras for some authentic Lithuanian fare.
Elaine had wisely setup the Bolt App on her handheld prior to leaving Alberta, I did not have that foresight. The App requires the user to respond to a text. I can't get texts for my Alberta number here without paying Koodo(Telus) $12 for the privilege of sending one text. We linked her Bolt App to my Stack card, worked perfectly.

Bolt Ride Hail Service

Bolt is a Uber type ride hailing service originating from Latvia(another Baltic country just next door to the north), now in 150 cities in Europe, Asia, Africa, Mexico and Australia. Not in United States or Canada... Probably can't be bothered with the ring fenced bullshit that those countries inflict on offshore competition. "Ring Fencing" of local services by government regulatory obstruction is a standard Canada/United States tactic

Kaunas Town Hall

Elaine summoned a Bolt car, which arrived in less than 2 minutes, estimated fare of €2.8 to the restaurant. We hopped in and were at Town Hall Square in downtown Kaunas in less than 10 minutes. My Stack App reported the transaction at some $4.50CAD which matched the estimate, later it was revised to a little over $6, about €4. No idea why, I was not consulted, not important, but annoying.

We found Etno Dvaras Restaurant with no difficulty a minute walk into Town Hall Square. Link below


Etno Dvaras

Potato Pancake with Bacon

There was no disappointment at Etno Dvaras. A nondescript storefront, clean well maintained interior. I started off at the bar where a young lady pulled test glasses of some 4 beers on tap. Local and a German brew, ended up ordering a pinta of the first one I had tasted, a local one, the pinta didn't make it past the first course. It was fine after my palate was punished by the others. We ordered 4 dishes, Sauerkraut Soup with Pork Rib, some dumpling dish, Potato Pancakes with Bacon, Beef Shank with Sauerkraut and Mashed Potatoes.
Very fine fare indeed, decent beer; and when I ordered the second pinta the waitress expressed great surprise(she is young yet), I was thirsty, it had been a long day. Alcohol was off limits to Elaine by now so I had to take the extra bullet. Another Bolt ride back to Algiro, this time the estimate of  €2.5 was what went on the card and did not change. Good value, €6.5 for return trip... all good. Bolt it is. Bring it to Alberta.

Vilnius Old Town Adventures

Old Town Vilnius

Apartment View

We had arranged for a rental apartment in Old Town, about 5 kms/15 minutes from the airport. The drive from Airport to the apartment was completely uneventful, navigating with handheld made this very easy.

The rental was a nice second floor flat, two bedrooms very close to Town Hall Square, all in cost including parking and a late night airport transfer was €110/day. 

Evening in Old Town

Town Hall Square

Elaine and I wandered around Old Town Friday evening prior to Michelle/Darren arrival. Michelle and Darren are living and working in The Netherlands. They took the opportunity to come to Lithuania for the weekend to visit with us and share the exploration of Vilnius. There is excellent walking access to one of the largest medieval towns in Northern Europe. Stunning buildings and churches are packed tightly onto just over 3.5 square kms of land. Narrow streets some paved with  cobblestone, very clean, saw no dog crap, not even bags hanging in trees. A fun place to wander around. 

A Church

Dimitri, the owner of the apartment, when pressed, recommended a nearby restaurant, Lokys for an evening meal. This establishment specializes in Lithuanian fare. We took the bait and wandered over, maybe a 10-minute walk? I managed to extend that to 20 minutes by following phone directions incorrectly. When we noticed we were now 13 minutes away vs 8 previously we followed the old supposedly Turkish adage, "no matter how far you go down the wrong road, always turn back". Amazing that the Turks knew English. 

Another Church

Sadly, can’t give Lokys more than a 3 out of 5, the hunters Hodge Podge Soup was excellent, the Boar roast I had was very good, the pork tenderloin roast Elaine ordered was more a pork loin end chop sans bone.... overdone to boot. Maybe they haven't updated pork cooking guides in the EU? OK but not all right. No harm done; the beer was decent.

One more Church

Michelle and Darren arrived on a late night Lufthansa flight from Schiphol, via Frankfurt, getting to the apartment near midnight. It was excellent to have their company to explore Old Town Vilnius with. A short visit that evening, I had maybe one hours sleep since departing Calgary, very soon was off to my bed. Did I mention that the beds at apartment are exceptionally comfortable? They would make a good replacement for the Payne Lake cabin “board like” mattresses

Street Market

After an excellent English breakfast and coffee, ironically at the French Cafe, Montemarte, we explored Old Town via a self guided walking tour App Michelle located on that magic internet. These handheld devices, although disgustingly addicting can be very handy sometimes. 

In a Window

We passed a street market near Town Square, Elaine and Michelle obtained cashmere scarves and I a toque from a street vendor, excellent quality, locally crafted, no doubt absurdly overpriced from a local perspective. Another silly toque for my winter hat drawer, but it was warm and came in handy later.

Again a Church

We window shopped many interesting spots, marveled at the architecture of the catholic churches and a few other buildings. Many styles, gothic, renaissance baroque, neoclassic side by each. 

These are just meaningless architectural words to me, words lifted from a questionable source but clearly not of the "middle ugly" style most North American architecture is based on. (The old public school board building on 5th Ave in Calgary comes to mind). 

Old Calgary School Board Headquarters

Amazingly after moving out in 2011, the School Board sold that site for $35MM in 2015. The building still sits with a fence around it today, another victim of the turdeau destruction of the Alberta economy. I wonder if it will be treated like a wellsite and the province will try and put the abandonment liability back on the school board when the purchaser goes tits up? Like they pretend to do in the oil business. Opps off topic
We even went into one church, many folks crossing themselves multiple times, no doubt we were intruding so we moved on...

Love Locks

There is a unique area surrounded by Vilnius, adjacent to Old Town, it is known as the Republic of Uzupis. A self declared state covering some square 0.6 square kms. A run down area in the 1980's, that has had an artsy renaissance after the Soviet occupation retreated. 

Frank Zappa Monument

A group of 12 Lithuanian "Intellectuals and Artists" erected a statue of Frank Zappa in 1995, purportedly as an opportunity to exert democratic independence, we didn't locate this marvel, fortunately the internet has a solution to those fails.

Street Art

Frank died in 1993 and had no connection to Lithuania. Uzupis declared itself a separate state April 1, 1997. 

One enters The Republic of Uzupis over at least 2 bridges heavily burdened with hundreds maybe thousands? of inscribed "love locks" a PDA that keeps on displaying. Very cool! Uzupis also has many examples of fun street art, recognizable as something other than a 10-storey blue hula hoop or rocks and rebar. Much for know everything Mayor Nenshi to learn.

After exiting Uzupis, a rest and a beverage was in order. 

Many tasty animal products to sample

We found The Meat Lovers Pub! Hard to get better than that, we enjoyed local beer, Elaine and I shared hot chili soup and Michelle and Darren chicken wings. Excellent fare! 

Rules of the Game

Still not completely stuffed, we located the Vilnius Cat Cafe, a delightful place with 15 adoptable cats to hang out with while enjoying coffee, snacks etc.

The only Cat Cafe in Vilnius!

Hard to get better that this. We spent about an hour

observing and occasionally, if the cats allowed, petting. 

 

Cat Cake

There is a €5 minimum charge so we were fortunately obligated to enjoy some cake as well as warm drinks to pad the bill. Truly cat-thartic.

Cat

On return trip to apartment we stopped at a LIDL.

Caatte

Smells another pussy cat

LIDL’S is privately owned, German based, “almost everything you will ever need” discount chain superstore. Very big in Europe along with similar store ALDI (also privately owned by a related family) Both these companies have over 10000 stores each in Europe and United States (Trader Joe's is an ALDI sub), but not in Canada for some unknown reason. 

Most probably the Weston and Sobey families have donated to all Canadian political parties to buy votes to maintain the oligopoly status quo in the food retail business. Similar to Bell/Telus/Rogers keeping Verizon and AT&T out of the cell phone market, did I mention it is expensive to be Canadian? Anyway, we picked up breakfast fixings and, of course, some beer.

Again a Cat

Another Cat

All the walking, eating/drinking, petting cats and shopping took a toll, had to retreat to apartment and have a short nap prior to further walking and drinking and eating more. 

Rested, we ventured out again, some of the streets now are almost familiar. We marveled that we had not seen any law enforcement individuals or vehicles. 

Vilnius is the capital of Lithuania, no doubt there are elite folk like politicians, judges and other important folk living here that need protecting, maybe even the ordinary citizens? We saw no steel barriers or spikes at entrances to buildings, heard no sirens heralding the constabulary solving an incident, no beat cops? Very low key, maybe they frequent the numerous gentlemans clubs?

Presedntial Palace

We walked by the Presidential Palace and saw no signs of security!  If you have been to Washington DC you will know that one needs earplugs the sirens are so loud and frequent. Can’t get anywhere near the White House. Not to mention that hundreds of armed para-military as well as actual military troops that patrol the streets, presumably to keep it safe for all the elite. One wonders how Vilnius is not suffering total anarchy? One also wonders why in the United States,  “the land of the free” such excessive security is necessary? To be fair, Vilnius may be secretly secured by thousands of KGB type security operatives dressed up like ordinary folk out for the evening enjoying beer, snacks and fun? Or maybe the criminals in the population were exterminated under the Soviets and only docile good folk remain? A mystery.

We located an unnamed pub, at least we didn’t see any identifying signs, but it looked inviting inside. I will refer to it as the Pail and Paper for a soon to be obvious reason. Small, maybe holds 50 or so folk, probably less. We found seats at the bar and prepared for further libations and snacks.

Pail and Paper Pub

Magically a table emptied behind us and we were able to occupy it before anyone else. An odd place with picnic type tables and square top stools, also a metal bucket and a roll of paper towels were secured out of sight under the table. 

The Pail and Paper

The mind boggles at what the bucket may be used for or the towels for that matter?…brings to mind the step ladder in, if I recall correctly, the late ‘60’s movie Bob Carol Ted and Alice, they wondered how it should be used as a relationship aid, turned out was just left behind by a tradesman…. 

Pigs' Ear Delicacy

Anyway! There was an eclectic snack menu, we took it on. Ordered apparently local delicacies like pigs’ ears, fried corn cobs, jacket baked potatoes with garlic sour cream, olives and of course chicken wings. All were excellent, who knew pigs’ ears were not only dog treats? When cut up and fried, they are simply delicious? 

The fried corn cob was cut in 2" (5 cm) sections, very tasty. Potatoes, olives and wings all excellent, oh, and as was the beer. Only regret is the photo of the guy at the bar with one of the largest plumbers cracks I have ever witnessed was blurred. Sometimes bad light is good, will just have to leave it as a bad memory that will soon fade.

From the pub we wandered back to the apartment, chatted for awhile as we enjoyed a few more malted beverages before turning in.

Still a bit jet lagged, we woke up early, but just laid around. Enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the rental, simple stuff, bacon, egg, sausage, fried mushrooms, bread, coffee/tea about half the calories of the English/French breakfast of the previous day. Didn’t want to blow away 6 weeks of fitness effort in a day or so. A relaxing start to what we hoped would be an interesting day. 

Hot Air Balloon Flight Adventure

Setting Up

When we had decided to travel to Lithuania for knee surgery, I took the time to check out what might be interesting things to do at Vilnius. A couple ideas jumped out, a Balloon Flight sounded very exciting, the opportunity to shoot AK47, Glock and Shotgun at one event also was mildly interesting. I contacted Smile Balloons in early December to inquire as to possibility of a Balloon Flight adventure. Links below to Ballooning and Shooting sites.

https://www.hotairballoon.lt/en/

https://kingofshooting.com/vilnius/shooting-packages

Testing the Burners

Companion Balloon

The balloon company promptly responded, noted that this activity is highly weather dependent in winter, the cost being about €100 each. The shooting of multiple weapons was somewhat less costly. The balloon operator contacted me January 16th  to confirm he saw a good weather forecast for the coming weekend and we should plan for Sunday. Sounded good, we confirmed our booking Saturday and hoped the weather would cooperate.  Sunday arrived and 12:30 was proposed as the meeting time at the Town Square fountain. The gratuitous shooting of multiple firearms fee by the wayside. Maybe next time we visit Vilnius...

Lift Off

The weather was foggy, to us possibly these are somewhat questionable flying conditions? Speaking of weather, we were advised that this January the weather was different than anytime in at least the last 60 years. Temperatures range from day highs of 6C to lows of  -1C. No snow, no ice, very mild for 57 degrees north latitude. Compared to the -34 we had in Calgary the day before we departed it was awesome. That said, the humidity is far greater in 

Michelle

Lithuania than Alberta, 0C felt more like -10C here than it does in the minimal humidity we experience in Calgary. Still, it is winter, when asked about proper dress, the balloon guys said no special clothing required. They must normally dress differently in Lithuania. A heavy coat, a couple under-layers on top, long underwear and jeans as well as winter boots, buff, heavy wool toque and decent gloves did not make me feel like I was overly warm.

Above the Clouds

We arrived at the fountain a few minutes early, there was already a van there towing a trailer with a balloon basket in it. It was not our guys, but was a related group, our guys soon showed up in their aging Mitsubishi van. There was no discussion about flight conditions, seemed it was a go. In Canada prior, to taking a trip like this, at least a 4-page onerous Scurfield type waiver would have to be executed by all participants. Here in Lithuania there was no discussion of waiver or risk. I mentioned a safety meeting and the Pilot seemed to nod. The 4 of us and 2 other English folks loaded ourselves into the van and were off to the staging area northwest of Trakai Island Castle. 

The Pilot

The drive out through Vilnius and a bit of rural Lithuania was unremarkable. The fields are green, apparently unusual for this time of year, didn’t see one cow. Most homesteads are well maintained, did not see poverty like can be seen in Canada(most First Nations Settlements like Laverne, Alberta, Vancouver East Hastings, among many others) the rural United States, (Greenville Mississippi, West Memphis Arkansas), Ecuador, Peru etc. Maybe this is the high end part of Lithuania. We stopped next to a pasture and then drove into what looked like a wetland, however the van remained on the ground surface so all good. The weather was not much different than in town, ceiling maybe a bit higher, we wondered if this event would happen. 

Pilot burner controls

It took only a few minutes to unload the basket and balloon from the trailer, then another 10 minutes to inflate. Then the seven of us including Pilot, climbed into the somewhat cramped basket. The safety meeting consisted of advising not to grab the propane hoses, and be careful getting out of basket. Nothing about what to do in an emergency.

For all of us, it was our first Hot Air Balloon flight, the Pilot even said it was his first (although later proudly admitted to over 1300)! The burners were fired and, like the Sheep, the Duck and the Rooster who inaugurated creature occupied Hot Air Balloon flights in France in 1783, we were on our way. The craft rises quite quickly, depending on propane burn rate (how much the Pilot turns that quarter turn ball valve), soon we were soaring silently (at least when the burners are off) into the mist. The pilot mentioned that ballooning in cloud in summer wasn't typically done as it usually meant bad weather. In winter it can be foggy with little wind. We were soon above the lower cloud layer, the companion balloon followed a few minutes behind, we even saw a few glimpses of the sun. 

Over top of Power Pylon

Deluxe Mansion

A Hot Air Balloon flight is an exhilarating experience, far different than modern fixed wing or rotary aircraft where hearing protection from the constant noise is generally required. We soared over birch and evergreen forests, interspersed with lakes, farms, majestic homes, power pylons and more. Our adventure also featured, a hopefully unplanned, unhappy dip down through birch tree tops where some participants experience some minor scratching injuries. A couple dogs barked as we passed overhead, apparently balloons scare or annoy them. They were the only non-human creatures I saw, others said they saw a couple horses. Farm animals, cows, pigs, sheep, goats, chickens must be kept inside here in winter like they do in the UK. Apparently the moisture causes foot issues. In Alberta we keep the chickens inside away from the foxes, but the big animals stay outside to be eaten by occasionally by Grizzly Bears. (True story, I lost a calf to a Grizzly this spring, government even sent a compensation cheque!)

Balloon over the Castle

Approaching Trakia Island Castle

Eventually we floated over Trakia Island Castle. Folks on the ground waved, we felt like celebrities. Trakia Island Castle is a national treasure. Originally constructed in the 14^th century, it was built in several phases, then fell into disrepair. Efforts at restoration started in the late 19^th century and continued under Imperial Russia, Lithuanian and Polish efforts. After WWII, the Soviets took the project on beginning in 1946. Completion to present day condition took until 1961. Today the castle is a major tourist attraction, concerts holding some 1000 attendees, are held in the courtyard. The castle is in great repair, or so it looked from a few hundred feet above, no need now to stop and visit the Castle now, can save the entrance fee. I can't imagine the eye level view could match the bird's eye.

Looking back at Trakia Island Castle

Soon enough, the 1 hour duration flight was over. A suitable time, folks were starting to get cold. The touchdown was very soft, maybe one bump on ground before settling. We exited the basket and were back on Terra Firma. Safe as the barnyard animals in the 18^th century. The balloon was rolled up in a few minutes, it along with the basket, were quickly and efficiently stowed in the trailer. It was 

Down and Out

Touching Down

time for a short ceremony, a hot drink and a glass of sparkling Italian wine a certificate with your name on it proclaiming something.( we wondered why we had to record our names at the start given it was not a waiver or other legal document) The ride back to Vilnius was much shorter, maybe one half hour, light traffic, no seat belts, reclining jump seat, driver texting all good. Like Canada in the '70's.

We returned to the Town Square, paid the agreed to fee, said our goodbyes. A delightful experience, certainly highly recommended. We then headed back to apartment, some of us had showers to chase away the cold that a few hours outside doing nothing physical attracts.

 

Meat Lovers Pub Revisited

Meat Lovers Pub Store Front

What to do for dinner? We rarely attend the same place twice while traveling, either because it was substandard or because it was really good. Our experience has been that consistently good is difficult to achieve. Better to remember the good time without risking tainting that good experience by a substandard reprise performance.

The Meat Lovers Pub however was calling us back. We had merely had soup/appetizers and beer at our afternoon engagement, we really felt that, although excellent, it was not a good measure of the establishment.

Off we went for a full on carnivore experience with a return engagement at Meat Lovers Pub. A true PETA (People Eating Tasty Animals) experience as a friend's Tee Shirt proclaims.The photos taken inside the pub did not work due to bad light or bad operation. I am truly sad the photo of the lady with a pet White Rat on her shoulder did not turn out. I have included a stock photo downloaded from Tumblr that is a decent proxy. Truly astonishing to see a pet rat on her shoulder, good chance the Rat thought it was a Parrot? In addition the table next had a Dog with them? Unleashed it wandered around the establishment a few times forcing the owner to retrieve it. Did not behave like a service dog, different rules it seems, not necessarily bad, I'm sure there was little cleanup of table scraps required on closing.

Seems I was so excited about reading the wall posted menu and observing the Rat and Dog, I forgot to snap an image of the menu. 

The one attached here is from Meat Lovers Pub web page, prices are higher now as well as a few changes in offerings. They have a Horse Burger listed on the web, which was not on the in store version, must have been out of season this January? Maybe Fort MacLeod is no longer exporting Alberta's culls/wild captures to Europe? I would certainly have ordered a Horse Burger if available. A Lovers Burger is also listed on the online menu, hard to imagine what that might consist of.... maybe deleted as was not a big seller as folks were afraid of what the meat might be?

Proxy Meat Lover Lithuanian Rat Lady

Anyway enough silliness, we placed our orders, malted beverages first, which, after a few tries, the desired brews were delivered. Individual carne orders were placed, not a family style place, share a few bites yes, but the desire was for an entire cut. Duck Breast, Beef Steak (on inquiry was told was Tenderloin), Berlin Schnitzel (maybe it was actually horse, as seems to have replaced that space on the menu) and Pork Ribs were ordered. Our dreams were realized, all of the entrees were excellent, even came with potatoes and salad/slaw. One of us lucky enough to get fries! Filled our stomachs after a long day with no significant midday meal.

We enjoyed a further beverage before closing time chased us away. Excellent, the establishment clearly deserves the 4.5 stars it gets on average from the nearly 4000 rating on various web places. We waddled back to the apartment and enjoyed the remainder of  our last night in Vilnius savouring and digesting the delicious fare.

Morning seemed to arrive early, still jet lagged it seemed, presumably morning happens the same time every day? We enjoyed the same breakfast as Sunday, and hung out relaxing prior to heading to airport to drop Michelle and Darren off by 13:00 for a 15:00ish flight. From the airport we were soon on the freeway heading to Kaunas. The knee surgery consultation appointment at NordOthorpaedic Clinic awaited us later in afternoon.