Vilnius Old Town Adventures

Old Town Vilnius

Apartment View

We had arranged for a rental apartment in Old Town, about 5 kms/15 minutes from the airport. The drive from Airport to the apartment was completely uneventful, navigating with handheld made this very easy.

The rental was a nice second floor flat, two bedrooms very close to Town Hall Square, all in cost including parking and a late night airport transfer was €110/day. 

Evening in Old Town

Town Hall Square

Elaine and I wandered around Old Town Friday evening prior to Michelle/Darren arrival. Michelle and Darren are living and working in The Netherlands. They took the opportunity to come to Lithuania for the weekend to visit with us and share the exploration of Vilnius. There is excellent walking access to one of the largest medieval towns in Northern Europe. Stunning buildings and churches are packed tightly onto just over 3.5 square kms of land. Narrow streets some paved with  cobblestone, very clean, saw no dog crap, not even bags hanging in trees. A fun place to wander around. 

A Church

Dimitri, the owner of the apartment, when pressed, recommended a nearby restaurant, Lokys for an evening meal. This establishment specializes in Lithuanian fare. We took the bait and wandered over, maybe a 10-minute walk? I managed to extend that to 20 minutes by following phone directions incorrectly. When we noticed we were now 13 minutes away vs 8 previously we followed the old supposedly Turkish adage, "no matter how far you go down the wrong road, always turn back". Amazing that the Turks knew English. 

Another Church

Sadly, can’t give Lokys more than a 3 out of 5, the hunters Hodge Podge Soup was excellent, the Boar roast I had was very good, the pork tenderloin roast Elaine ordered was more a pork loin end chop sans bone.... overdone to boot. Maybe they haven't updated pork cooking guides in the EU? OK but not all right. No harm done; the beer was decent.

One more Church

Michelle and Darren arrived on a late night Lufthansa flight from Schiphol, via Frankfurt, getting to the apartment near midnight. It was excellent to have their company to explore Old Town Vilnius with. A short visit that evening, I had maybe one hours sleep since departing Calgary, very soon was off to my bed. Did I mention that the beds at apartment are exceptionally comfortable? They would make a good replacement for the Payne Lake cabin “board like” mattresses

Street Market

After an excellent English breakfast and coffee, ironically at the French Cafe, Montemarte, we explored Old Town via a self guided walking tour App Michelle located on that magic internet. These handheld devices, although disgustingly addicting can be very handy sometimes. 

In a Window

We passed a street market near Town Square, Elaine and Michelle obtained cashmere scarves and I a toque from a street vendor, excellent quality, locally crafted, no doubt absurdly overpriced from a local perspective. Another silly toque for my winter hat drawer, but it was warm and came in handy later.

Again a Church

We window shopped many interesting spots, marveled at the architecture of the catholic churches and a few other buildings. Many styles, gothic, renaissance baroque, neoclassic side by each. 

These are just meaningless architectural words to me, words lifted from a questionable source but clearly not of the "middle ugly" style most North American architecture is based on. (The old public school board building on 5th Ave in Calgary comes to mind). 

Old Calgary School Board Headquarters

Amazingly after moving out in 2011, the School Board sold that site for $35MM in 2015. The building still sits with a fence around it today, another victim of the turdeau destruction of the Alberta economy. I wonder if it will be treated like a wellsite and the province will try and put the abandonment liability back on the school board when the purchaser goes tits up? Like they pretend to do in the oil business. Opps off topic
We even went into one church, many folks crossing themselves multiple times, no doubt we were intruding so we moved on...

Love Locks

There is a unique area surrounded by Vilnius, adjacent to Old Town, it is known as the Republic of Uzupis. A self declared state covering some square 0.6 square kms. A run down area in the 1980's, that has had an artsy renaissance after the Soviet occupation retreated. 

Frank Zappa Monument

A group of 12 Lithuanian "Intellectuals and Artists" erected a statue of Frank Zappa in 1995, purportedly as an opportunity to exert democratic independence, we didn't locate this marvel, fortunately the internet has a solution to those fails.

Street Art

Frank died in 1993 and had no connection to Lithuania. Uzupis declared itself a separate state April 1, 1997. 

One enters The Republic of Uzupis over at least 2 bridges heavily burdened with hundreds maybe thousands? of inscribed "love locks" a PDA that keeps on displaying. Very cool! Uzupis also has many examples of fun street art, recognizable as something other than a 10-storey blue hula hoop or rocks and rebar. Much for know everything Mayor Nenshi to learn.

After exiting Uzupis, a rest and a beverage was in order. 

Many tasty animal products to sample

We found The Meat Lovers Pub! Hard to get better than that, we enjoyed local beer, Elaine and I shared hot chili soup and Michelle and Darren chicken wings. Excellent fare! 

Rules of the Game

Still not completely stuffed, we located the Vilnius Cat Cafe, a delightful place with 15 adoptable cats to hang out with while enjoying coffee, snacks etc.

The only Cat Cafe in Vilnius!

Hard to get better that this. We spent about an hour

observing and occasionally, if the cats allowed, petting. 

 

Cat Cake

There is a €5 minimum charge so we were fortunately obligated to enjoy some cake as well as warm drinks to pad the bill. Truly cat-thartic.

Cat

On return trip to apartment we stopped at a LIDL.

Caatte

Smells another pussy cat

LIDL’S is privately owned, German based, “almost everything you will ever need” discount chain superstore. Very big in Europe along with similar store ALDI (also privately owned by a related family) Both these companies have over 10000 stores each in Europe and United States (Trader Joe's is an ALDI sub), but not in Canada for some unknown reason. 

Most probably the Weston and Sobey families have donated to all Canadian political parties to buy votes to maintain the oligopoly status quo in the food retail business. Similar to Bell/Telus/Rogers keeping Verizon and AT&T out of the cell phone market, did I mention it is expensive to be Canadian? Anyway, we picked up breakfast fixings and, of course, some beer.

Again a Cat

Another Cat

All the walking, eating/drinking, petting cats and shopping took a toll, had to retreat to apartment and have a short nap prior to further walking and drinking and eating more. 

Rested, we ventured out again, some of the streets now are almost familiar. We marveled that we had not seen any law enforcement individuals or vehicles. 

Vilnius is the capital of Lithuania, no doubt there are elite folk like politicians, judges and other important folk living here that need protecting, maybe even the ordinary citizens? We saw no steel barriers or spikes at entrances to buildings, heard no sirens heralding the constabulary solving an incident, no beat cops? Very low key, maybe they frequent the numerous gentlemans clubs?

Presedntial Palace

We walked by the Presidential Palace and saw no signs of security!  If you have been to Washington DC you will know that one needs earplugs the sirens are so loud and frequent. Can’t get anywhere near the White House. Not to mention that hundreds of armed para-military as well as actual military troops that patrol the streets, presumably to keep it safe for all the elite. One wonders how Vilnius is not suffering total anarchy? One also wonders why in the United States,  “the land of the free” such excessive security is necessary? To be fair, Vilnius may be secretly secured by thousands of KGB type security operatives dressed up like ordinary folk out for the evening enjoying beer, snacks and fun? Or maybe the criminals in the population were exterminated under the Soviets and only docile good folk remain? A mystery.

We located an unnamed pub, at least we didn’t see any identifying signs, but it looked inviting inside. I will refer to it as the Pail and Paper for a soon to be obvious reason. Small, maybe holds 50 or so folk, probably less. We found seats at the bar and prepared for further libations and snacks.

Pail and Paper Pub

Magically a table emptied behind us and we were able to occupy it before anyone else. An odd place with picnic type tables and square top stools, also a metal bucket and a roll of paper towels were secured out of sight under the table. 

The Pail and Paper

The mind boggles at what the bucket may be used for or the towels for that matter?…brings to mind the step ladder in, if I recall correctly, the late ‘60’s movie Bob Carol Ted and Alice, they wondered how it should be used as a relationship aid, turned out was just left behind by a tradesman…. 

Pigs' Ear Delicacy

Anyway! There was an eclectic snack menu, we took it on. Ordered apparently local delicacies like pigs’ ears, fried corn cobs, jacket baked potatoes with garlic sour cream, olives and of course chicken wings. All were excellent, who knew pigs’ ears were not only dog treats? When cut up and fried, they are simply delicious? 

The fried corn cob was cut in 2" (5 cm) sections, very tasty. Potatoes, olives and wings all excellent, oh, and as was the beer. Only regret is the photo of the guy at the bar with one of the largest plumbers cracks I have ever witnessed was blurred. Sometimes bad light is good, will just have to leave it as a bad memory that will soon fade.

From the pub we wandered back to the apartment, chatted for awhile as we enjoyed a few more malted beverages before turning in.

Still a bit jet lagged, we woke up early, but just laid around. Enjoyed a leisurely breakfast at the rental, simple stuff, bacon, egg, sausage, fried mushrooms, bread, coffee/tea about half the calories of the English/French breakfast of the previous day. Didn’t want to blow away 6 weeks of fitness effort in a day or so. A relaxing start to what we hoped would be an interesting day. 

Hot Air Balloon Flight Adventure

Setting Up

When we had decided to travel to Lithuania for knee surgery, I took the time to check out what might be interesting things to do at Vilnius. A couple ideas jumped out, a Balloon Flight sounded very exciting, the opportunity to shoot AK47, Glock and Shotgun at one event also was mildly interesting. I contacted Smile Balloons in early December to inquire as to possibility of a Balloon Flight adventure. Links below to Ballooning and Shooting sites.

https://www.hotairballoon.lt/en/

https://kingofshooting.com/vilnius/shooting-packages

Testing the Burners

Companion Balloon

The balloon company promptly responded, noted that this activity is highly weather dependent in winter, the cost being about €100 each. The shooting of multiple weapons was somewhat less costly. The balloon operator contacted me January 16th  to confirm he saw a good weather forecast for the coming weekend and we should plan for Sunday. Sounded good, we confirmed our booking Saturday and hoped the weather would cooperate.  Sunday arrived and 12:30 was proposed as the meeting time at the Town Square fountain. The gratuitous shooting of multiple firearms fee by the wayside. Maybe next time we visit Vilnius...

Lift Off

The weather was foggy, to us possibly these are somewhat questionable flying conditions? Speaking of weather, we were advised that this January the weather was different than anytime in at least the last 60 years. Temperatures range from day highs of 6C to lows of  -1C. No snow, no ice, very mild for 57 degrees north latitude. Compared to the -34 we had in Calgary the day before we departed it was awesome. That said, the humidity is far greater in 

Michelle

Lithuania than Alberta, 0C felt more like -10C here than it does in the minimal humidity we experience in Calgary. Still, it is winter, when asked about proper dress, the balloon guys said no special clothing required. They must normally dress differently in Lithuania. A heavy coat, a couple under-layers on top, long underwear and jeans as well as winter boots, buff, heavy wool toque and decent gloves did not make me feel like I was overly warm.

Above the Clouds

We arrived at the fountain a few minutes early, there was already a van there towing a trailer with a balloon basket in it. It was not our guys, but was a related group, our guys soon showed up in their aging Mitsubishi van. There was no discussion about flight conditions, seemed it was a go. In Canada prior, to taking a trip like this, at least a 4-page onerous Scurfield type waiver would have to be executed by all participants. Here in Lithuania there was no discussion of waiver or risk. I mentioned a safety meeting and the Pilot seemed to nod. The 4 of us and 2 other English folks loaded ourselves into the van and were off to the staging area northwest of Trakai Island Castle. 

The Pilot

The drive out through Vilnius and a bit of rural Lithuania was unremarkable. The fields are green, apparently unusual for this time of year, didn’t see one cow. Most homesteads are well maintained, did not see poverty like can be seen in Canada(most First Nations Settlements like Laverne, Alberta, Vancouver East Hastings, among many others) the rural United States, (Greenville Mississippi, West Memphis Arkansas), Ecuador, Peru etc. Maybe this is the high end part of Lithuania. We stopped next to a pasture and then drove into what looked like a wetland, however the van remained on the ground surface so all good. The weather was not much different than in town, ceiling maybe a bit higher, we wondered if this event would happen. 

Pilot burner controls

It took only a few minutes to unload the basket and balloon from the trailer, then another 10 minutes to inflate. Then the seven of us including Pilot, climbed into the somewhat cramped basket. The safety meeting consisted of advising not to grab the propane hoses, and be careful getting out of basket. Nothing about what to do in an emergency.

For all of us, it was our first Hot Air Balloon flight, the Pilot even said it was his first (although later proudly admitted to over 1300)! The burners were fired and, like the Sheep, the Duck and the Rooster who inaugurated creature occupied Hot Air Balloon flights in France in 1783, we were on our way. The craft rises quite quickly, depending on propane burn rate (how much the Pilot turns that quarter turn ball valve), soon we were soaring silently (at least when the burners are off) into the mist. The pilot mentioned that ballooning in cloud in summer wasn't typically done as it usually meant bad weather. In winter it can be foggy with little wind. We were soon above the lower cloud layer, the companion balloon followed a few minutes behind, we even saw a few glimpses of the sun. 

Over top of Power Pylon

Deluxe Mansion

A Hot Air Balloon flight is an exhilarating experience, far different than modern fixed wing or rotary aircraft where hearing protection from the constant noise is generally required. We soared over birch and evergreen forests, interspersed with lakes, farms, majestic homes, power pylons and more. Our adventure also featured, a hopefully unplanned, unhappy dip down through birch tree tops where some participants experience some minor scratching injuries. A couple dogs barked as we passed overhead, apparently balloons scare or annoy them. They were the only non-human creatures I saw, others said they saw a couple horses. Farm animals, cows, pigs, sheep, goats, chickens must be kept inside here in winter like they do in the UK. Apparently the moisture causes foot issues. In Alberta we keep the chickens inside away from the foxes, but the big animals stay outside to be eaten by occasionally by Grizzly Bears. (True story, I lost a calf to a Grizzly this spring, government even sent a compensation cheque!)

Balloon over the Castle

Approaching Trakia Island Castle

Eventually we floated over Trakia Island Castle. Folks on the ground waved, we felt like celebrities. Trakia Island Castle is a national treasure. Originally constructed in the 14^th century, it was built in several phases, then fell into disrepair. Efforts at restoration started in the late 19^th century and continued under Imperial Russia, Lithuanian and Polish efforts. After WWII, the Soviets took the project on beginning in 1946. Completion to present day condition took until 1961. Today the castle is a major tourist attraction, concerts holding some 1000 attendees, are held in the courtyard. The castle is in great repair, or so it looked from a few hundred feet above, no need now to stop and visit the Castle now, can save the entrance fee. I can't imagine the eye level view could match the bird's eye.

Looking back at Trakia Island Castle

Soon enough, the 1 hour duration flight was over. A suitable time, folks were starting to get cold. The touchdown was very soft, maybe one bump on ground before settling. We exited the basket and were back on Terra Firma. Safe as the barnyard animals in the 18^th century. The balloon was rolled up in a few minutes, it along with the basket, were quickly and efficiently stowed in the trailer. It was 

Down and Out

Touching Down

time for a short ceremony, a hot drink and a glass of sparkling Italian wine a certificate with your name on it proclaiming something.( we wondered why we had to record our names at the start given it was not a waiver or other legal document) The ride back to Vilnius was much shorter, maybe one half hour, light traffic, no seat belts, reclining jump seat, driver texting all good. Like Canada in the '70's.

We returned to the Town Square, paid the agreed to fee, said our goodbyes. A delightful experience, certainly highly recommended. We then headed back to apartment, some of us had showers to chase away the cold that a few hours outside doing nothing physical attracts.

 

Meat Lovers Pub Revisited

Meat Lovers Pub Store Front

What to do for dinner? We rarely attend the same place twice while traveling, either because it was substandard or because it was really good. Our experience has been that consistently good is difficult to achieve. Better to remember the good time without risking tainting that good experience by a substandard reprise performance.

The Meat Lovers Pub however was calling us back. We had merely had soup/appetizers and beer at our afternoon engagement, we really felt that, although excellent, it was not a good measure of the establishment.

Off we went for a full on carnivore experience with a return engagement at Meat Lovers Pub. A true PETA (People Eating Tasty Animals) experience as a friend's Tee Shirt proclaims.The photos taken inside the pub did not work due to bad light or bad operation. I am truly sad the photo of the lady with a pet White Rat on her shoulder did not turn out. I have included a stock photo downloaded from Tumblr that is a decent proxy. Truly astonishing to see a pet rat on her shoulder, good chance the Rat thought it was a Parrot? In addition the table next had a Dog with them? Unleashed it wandered around the establishment a few times forcing the owner to retrieve it. Did not behave like a service dog, different rules it seems, not necessarily bad, I'm sure there was little cleanup of table scraps required on closing.

Seems I was so excited about reading the wall posted menu and observing the Rat and Dog, I forgot to snap an image of the menu. 

The one attached here is from Meat Lovers Pub web page, prices are higher now as well as a few changes in offerings. They have a Horse Burger listed on the web, which was not on the in store version, must have been out of season this January? Maybe Fort MacLeod is no longer exporting Alberta's culls/wild captures to Europe? I would certainly have ordered a Horse Burger if available. A Lovers Burger is also listed on the online menu, hard to imagine what that might consist of.... maybe deleted as was not a big seller as folks were afraid of what the meat might be?

Proxy Meat Lover Lithuanian Rat Lady

Anyway enough silliness, we placed our orders, malted beverages first, which, after a few tries, the desired brews were delivered. Individual carne orders were placed, not a family style place, share a few bites yes, but the desire was for an entire cut. Duck Breast, Beef Steak (on inquiry was told was Tenderloin), Berlin Schnitzel (maybe it was actually horse, as seems to have replaced that space on the menu) and Pork Ribs were ordered. Our dreams were realized, all of the entrees were excellent, even came with potatoes and salad/slaw. One of us lucky enough to get fries! Filled our stomachs after a long day with no significant midday meal.

We enjoyed a further beverage before closing time chased us away. Excellent, the establishment clearly deserves the 4.5 stars it gets on average from the nearly 4000 rating on various web places. We waddled back to the apartment and enjoyed the remainder of  our last night in Vilnius savouring and digesting the delicious fare.

Morning seemed to arrive early, still jet lagged it seemed, presumably morning happens the same time every day? We enjoyed the same breakfast as Sunday, and hung out relaxing prior to heading to airport to drop Michelle and Darren off by 13:00 for a 15:00ish flight. From the airport we were soon on the freeway heading to Kaunas. The knee surgery consultation appointment at NordOthorpaedic Clinic awaited us later in afternoon.